I had a brief love affair with surfing a few summers ago. I watched Laird Hamilton and others in the outstanding documentary, Riding Giants, and I thought to myself, “I need to do this.”
I bought a board, got the gear, and headed to Venice a few days a week. It was at that time that I realized…surfing is really freaking hard. I was scared to go down the face of a three-foot wave, and there are guys out there riding 50-footers? The learning curve seemed a bit too steep for my tastes.
That’s why my surfboard has been collecting dust in the garage for the past four years, and why this clip of Garret McNamara riding a 90-foot wave (brought to my attention by my good friend Royal) is so unbelievably impressive. Watch the video and then check out the story at GrindTV.